随园食单

随园食单 (1792)

Suiyuan shidan

中文经典

作者
袁枚
首版
1792 年
国家/地区
清朝

百科

《随园食单》是清朝诗人、散文家袁枚撰写的一本食谱。该书出版于乾隆五十七年〈1792年〉,有系统地论述烹饪技术、饮食文化及中国南北菜点,是中国饮食史上的重要著作。

袁氏强调饮食烹饪必须重视原料的选择,指出“大抵一席之菜肴,司厨之功居其六,买办之功居其四”。他也强调烹饪必须讲究食料的色香味美,并强调原色原香。文中写到“一物有一物之味,不可混而同之”。文中也把烹调美食看成是一个系统工程,需要各方面的条件。除此之外,袁氏亦将中国传统的道德观融入其饮食理论中,特设戒单。如书中〈戒火锅〉一章即呈现其对火锅文化兴盛的不满。

续作

后清光绪年间夏曾传(字薪卿,号笏床,别号醉犀生)于此书基础上再次进行增补修订,完成《随园食单补证》。

以上文字摘自维基百科「随园食单」(去掉了参考文献等尾部小节),按 CC BY-SA 4.0 使用,作者为维基百科的各位编者。

中文维基百科的条目比较短,下面附上英文维基百科的内容(英文原文):

Recipes from the Garden of Contentment (Chinese: 隨園食單; pinyin: Suíyuán Shídān) is a work on cooking and gastronomy written by Yuan Mei. It is known in English under various titles, including Food Lists of the Garden of Contentment, Menus from the Garden of Contentment, Recipes from Sui Garden and The Way of Eating. It was originally published in 1792 and contains instructions and critiques on Chinese cuisine as well as a large number of recipes of dishes from the period. It was updated by Xia Chuanzheng in the late 19th century, and not translated into English in complete form until 2018.

Content

The work reflects Yuan's "orthodox" literati stance on Chinese cuisine, which derided the opulent displays and dishes in banquets of his time. Yuan also resented what he regarded as the corruption of Chinese food by Manchu cooks. The work contains a preface, two chapters on gastronomy, and 12 chapters on recipes using various ingredients:

"Preface" (序)

"Essential Knowledge" (須知單): 20 sections

"Things to Avoid" (戒單): 14 sections

"Seafood" (海鮮單): 9 sections

"River Delicacies" (江鮮單): 9 sections

"Sacrificial Animal" [pork] (特牲單): 43 sections

"Various Animals"' (雜牲單): 16 sections

"Poultry" (羽族單): 56 sections

"Scaled Fish" (水族有鱗單): 17 sections

"Scaleless Fish" (水族無鱗單): 28 sections

"Various Vegetable Dishes" (雜素菜單): 47 sections

"Small Dishes" (小菜單): 41 sections

"Appetizers and Dim Sum" (點心單): 55 sections

"Rice and Congee" (飯粥單): 2 sections

"Tea and Wine" (茶酒單): 16 sections

Foods and theory

A wide variety of foods and recipes are presented in the Recipes from the Garden of Contentment that show the gustatory preferences of Yuan Mei and people during the mid-18th century. For instance, a particular recipe to imitate roe-filled mitten crabs, shows that the demand and intense fondness for crab and crab-roe in Chinese cuisine goes back several centuries, and that people have also actively attempted to find a substitute for it when it is unavailable:

Imitation Crab: Boil two yellow croaker and remove their bones. Add to the fish four raw salted eggs. Break the eggs up without mixing them into the fish, and fry everything quickly with oil. To the mixture add chicken broth, let boil, and then stir in the salted egg until the mixture is even. Finish the dish with shiitake, green onions, ginger juice, and wine. Serve with liberal amounts of vinegar.

Annotated manuscript

More than half a century after the publication of the Recipes from the Garden of Contentment, Xia Chuanzheng (夏傳曾, 1843–1883) annotated and expanded the contents of the original work and published it as the Recipes from the Garden of Contentment, Extended and Rectified (隨園食單 補證; Suiyuan Shidan Buzheng). The modified work contains two additional chapters:

"Sweeteners and colourants" (糖色單)

"Condiments" (作料單)

The original text was also thoroughly annotated with reference to Chinese historical and philosophical works, and listed therapeutic effects of the food based on traditional Chinese medicine. Correction to errors in Recipes from the Garden of Contentment were also provided by Xia along with sometimes humorous anecdotes about the foods.

Bilingual translation

A bilingual Chinese and English version was published in 2018 as Recipes from the Garden of Contentment, translated by Sean J. S. Chen. It is 428 pages in this hardback edition, with extensive annotations, illustrations, and a glossary. In 2019, it was republished in trade-paperback form as The Way of Eating. The book was developed from the author's online translation project, Way of the Eating, developed from 2013 through 2017.

以上文字摘自英文维基百科「Recipes from the Garden of Contentment」(去掉了参考文献等尾部小节),按 CC BY-SA 4.0 使用,作者为维基百科的各位编者。

资料卡

原作语言
文言文
首次出版
1792 年

资料卡来自 Wikidata Q2363973(CC0),众包数据,个别字段可能不全。

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